The Karnali has to be the most amazing river in Nepal. Anyone I have met who has had the experience of
exploring the Karnali found it to be one of the most incredible journeys of their life.
The River
is the Largest (volume) and longest in Nepal and the upper sections are rarely explored. Along the lower
section the river takes a sharp turn from south to north, often called the Western Bend. At this point
the river can be accessed and an incredible adventure through deep gorges and remote regions begins.........
The upper Karnali, known as the Humla Karnali rises in Tibet from the holy peak, Mount Kailas, and
upper sections have been run by expedition groups. These normally start with a charter flight to Simikot
and then sixteen to twenty days to the take out at Chisopani. The full trip is only recommended for kayakers
with expedition experience.
The Lower Karnali can be run in five to seven days and still proves
a major river journey that has got to fall in the category of being one of the best in the world.
Breakdown of the journey
Travel to the river
The usual starting points are Kathmandu
or Pokhara and a bus journey takes you south through Narayanghat, Butwal, Nepalganj and arrives about
twenty hours later in Surket (also known as Birendranagar)
From here some operators commence a
trek for a day or so to the Put-in at Sauli. Many operators are taking advantage of the increasingly
better roads and this trek can now be by-passed by tractor / truck.
The trek is low level and
not too strenuous and is worth doing if you get the chance. If time is not on your side then the vehicle
option is better.
On the river
This river has the great advantage of steadily getting
harder and the first half day or so is very straight forward. By the end of the first day you may reach
some bigger class 3's, we got to "Sweetness and light", ran it, and camped the first night there. That
was from a morning start at the put-in. Normally none of the bigger rapids are reached during the first
half day.
Day two gets slightly bigger again and a chance to visit Jungle Ghat village is a fascinating
experience. From here a narrow jungle gorge is entered during day three with larger rapids that almost
run into each other in high water.....a serious consideration if anyone swims at the top.
Depending on the level of the river, day four could still be in the jungle corridor. Once the gorge is
exited the Seti river enters from the right, (this is the western Nepal Seti, not to be confused with
the river close to Pokhara) and the river grade drops to class 2. Another day or two brings you to the
Bheri river, entering from the left which has a good camping beach if you want to reach the take-out
at lunchtime the following day.
At the take-out, Chisopani, is an impressive bridge spanning the
river and plenty of shops selling food, soft drinks and cold beer. The return bus journey to Kathmandu
is about twenty hours.
Alternative returns would be via the Bardia national park which is located
nearby, or bus to Nepalganj (2 hours) and fly to Kathmandu from there.
Day by Day breakdown.......
Day 1 08:00 leave Kathmandu
Day 2 05:00 arrive Surkhet.
Trek option: begin trekking straight away.
Camp at school halfway to river.
Day 3 Continue Trek to river arriving early afternoon, Onto the river for an hour or two, Camp.
Day 4 River to above jungle Ghat
Day 5 Visit Jungle
Ghat village, river to above the Jungle Corridor
Day 6 The big day - God's house
rapid and others.
Day 7 Out of the Jungle Corridor
Day 8 Steady float to confluence
of the Bheri river
Day 9 Half day to Chisopani,
leave mid-afternoon
Day 10 Arrive Kathmandu lunchtime /
afternoon
Remember......travel in Nepal is always an adventure and the above times
and days are a guide. Much depends on the river level and road conditions to and
from the river.
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